vrijdag 26 maart 2021

Carreaux Crochet Blanket


If you have a whole bunch of carreaux crochet test patches and you want to turn them into a blanket or a rug, there are - offcourse - several options. 

You can sew them together with a needle and a thread or you can use your favourite way to crochet them together.

In this blog I show you how I put them together to solve the problem of different sizes and also to keep the end project flexible enough to be folded.
When I started trying out different designs for the patches - my own designs on paper, or cross stitch and knitting charts found on Internet / Ravelry - I ended up with a whole bunch of patches of different sizes. 

To put them together I used: sc in patch 1, ch, skip a stitch, sc in patch 2, ch, skip a stitch (repeat). Then turn the work and do the same to create a double layer of 'mortar'. On the way back insert in the skipped stitches. Sometimes you might need to insert in the same stitch to keep every aligned (see image below).

Sometimes I made an extra border around a patch to make it a bit bigger. If you look at the picture above you can see that one of the blue/red/white patches is much smaller, so here I did the same to make it (sort of...) fit to the rest.

For this one I started in the middle of the four patches and went all the way down. Then turned the patch and went up again. You can see the beginning on the left picture.

In the other two pictures you can see the differents (on both sides) of the part where it's already done twice and where I had to go back to the middle of the patch again. In the middle I improvised to go to the sides.
Go all the way up with *sc in patch 1, ch, skip a stitch, sc in patch 2, ch, skip a stitch* (repeat) 

To align the pattern you might need to skip two stitches or don't skip a stitch (image 2)

Turn the patch and insert in the skipped stitches.
If you haven't skipped a stitch insert in a stitch where you have already made a sc 
If you have skipped two stitches make a loop in the first one and a loop in the second one, then pull through three loops

donderdag 18 februari 2021

Carreaux Crochet Basic Explanation

Basic Design
The basic principle of Carreaux Crochet is that you always make the same row twice. One time you read the diagram from left to right and the second time from right to left. This example is a step-by-step explanation of how it works.

If you like it and you want to try more or if this is too difficult and you need an extended explanation, and also if you want to support me: click on one of the links on the end of this blog.

I have used "Sunny" from Cheval Blanc, a 4 ply cotton (50 m ~ 125 m) and crochet hook 3.5 mm (E).
These are the colors I have used for this example. Around 4 meter of both main colors A and B. 5 meter of C, which is the third color and is also used as the basic foundation and for the border.

Start by making a foundation with C of 10 chain stitches + 1 chain stitch to turn ('tch'). Then turn and make 10 single crochet stitches, but finish the last one with color A. Make a 'tch' (turning chain stitch) with A.

1A - 5 sc, make these as usual, then a 'chs' = chain stitch to turn sides (see first image below). Turn the foundation towards you and insert on the back of the foundation (second image). 5 sc, finish the last one with yarn B and make a 'tch' (3rd and 4th image).

1B - 5 sc back = 5 single crochet stitches on the back of the foundation (see first image below). Then a 'chs' = chain stitch to change side (see second image) this is for the same reasons that you make a turning chain stitch on the end of your rows.
Turn your work away for you and make 5 sc on the front of the foundation (see third image).
Finish with a tch and your work should look like the fourth image.
Leave the end of yarn B on the outside, otherwise you can not weave it in at the end (see first image). Or hide it directly under the stitches.

2B - You start this row with yarn B. As you can see in the diagram you have to make 5 sc on the same color. Since you have turned your work you make them on the back (see first image). In the descriptions I write this down as "5 B back (on B)". 
Then make a chs and make "5 B front (on B), finish with A".
Be sure to leave the B working yarn in the inside / between the two layers. See arrow on image 3 and 4.

2A - 5 A front (on A) / chs / (see first image below).
Then 5 A back (on A) - it can be a bit difficult to find the first stitch where you have to insert, so think of counting backwards (see second image) to find the right stitch. Finish with a tch.

3A - "4 A front (on A), finish with C / 2 C front (1 on A, A on B), finish with A / chs / 4 A back (skip first A stitch), finish with B + tch"
3B - "4 B back (on B), finish with C / chs / 2 C front (1 on B, 1 on A), finish with B / 4 B front (on B) + tch
3A explanation:

"4 A front (on A), finish with C" = make the first 3 sc, then put the C yarn under the 4th, start with A, then finish the stitch with C. Don't pull too tight on C! Image 1, 2 and 3 below.
"2 C front (1 on A, 1 on B), finish with A". Make the first sc on the last A stitch in front, then put the A yarn under the next stitch, sc on the first B stitch in front, finish with A. Image 4, 5 and 6.
Then a "chs" to switch sides.
"4 A back (skip first A stitch), finish with B + tch" - The first A stitch that you skip in this row will be used in the next one (3B) - make sure to have the A yarn in the inside / between the layers (last image).
3B explanation:

Make 3 sc on the back, start the 4th sc with B, move yarn B to the front (= inside) - see first image. Then finish with C and make a chs (image 2). 2 C front = one on skipped A stitch (see arrow in second image), start the second on the first B stitch (image 3), then finish the stitch with B. As you can see in image 3 yarn B is behind the first stitch. This is the inside / between the layers.
Make 4 B sc on the front of the patch a turning sc (tch) - image 5.

4B - 4 B back (on B), finish with C (leave B inside / to the front) /
2 C back (on C), finish with B (leave C to the front) / chs /
4 B front (on B), finish with A + tch

4A - 4 A front (on A), finish with C / chs / (make sure to have yarn A between the layers) 2 C back (on C), finish with A (yarn C to the front = inside) / 4 A back (on A) + tch
5A - 2 A front (on A), finish with C / 6 C front (2 on A, 2 on C, 2 on B), finish with A (don't pull too tight) / chs / 2 A back (on A - skip first two A stitches), finish with B + tch (make sure to have yarn A on the inside)

5B - 2 B back (on B), finish with C / chs / (be sure to have yarn B inside / between the layers [5B-1]) / 6 C front (2 on A, 2 on C, 2 on B), finish with B (don't pull too tight) / 2 B front (on B) + tch [5B-2]

6B - 2 B front (on A - this is a color change [6B-1], finish with C / 6 C front, finish with B (don't pull too tight) / chs / 2 B back (on A), finish with A + tch [6B-2]

6A - 2 A back (on B), finish with C (be sure to have yarn A inside / between the layers) / chs / 6 C front (on C), finish with A [6A]

7A - 4 A back (2 on A, 2 on C), finish with C (yarn A inside) / 2 C back, finish with A (yarn C inside) / chs / 4 A front ([7A-1] on last two C-stitches, 2 on A), finish with B + tch [7A-2]

7B - 4 B front ([7B-1] 2 on B, 2 on C), finish with C [7B-2] / chs / 2 C back ([7B-3]on C), finish with B [7B-4] / 4 B back (2 on C, 2 on B) + tch [7B-5]

8B - 4 B front (on B), finish with C / 2 C front (on C), finish with B / chs / 2 B back (on B), finish with A + tch

8A - 4 A back (on A), finish with C / chs / 2 C front (on C), finish with A / 4 A front (on A) + tch (if you don't make the border with C leave it outside - it is finished for the figure)

9A - 5 A back (4 on A, 1 on C) / chs / 5 A front (1 on second C-stitch, 4 on A), finish with B + tch [9A]

9B - 5 B front (4 on B, 1 on C) / chs [9B-1] / 5 B back (1 on C, 4 on B) + tch [9B-2]

10B - 5 B front (on B) / chs / 5 B back (on B), finish with A (leave B outside, you can cut it, it is finished) + tch

10A - 5 A back (on A) / chs / 5 A front (on A), finish with C (leave A outside, you can cut it) [10A]

Weave in all ends and make a border with C in sc. Be sure to work through both layers!

This design will give the same image on the front and the back. Only the border will look slightly different.

If you want more help, information, examples or ideas and/or you like to support me:
There are 3 PDF files available on Ravelry for a small price. Click on the link below the images.
Carreaux Patch
Carreaux Collection
Carreaux Dotted Potholder
Carreaux Patch

A more extensive step-by-step explanation using four test patches.

Carreaux Collection

Some varations of Carreaux Crochet.

Carreaux Dotted Potholder

Design of the dotted potholder and a small test patch to learn how to read the design.

dinsdag 25 augustus 2020

Funny Faces

Someone in a Facebook group for tablet weaving had a struggle with the Ram's horn and it looked liked funny face. So I wanted to try to do this on purpose and the result is this picture on the left.
Short explanation:

First of all I tried to trace back to the warping. Also for the person to see what went wrong. Then with that information I designed my warp schedule on such a way that when red/yellow is up I have to flip/twist the red cards in the other direction. One could also use forward/backward.
To change the direction of the funny faces the less disturbing is to change when blue/green is up (= red/yellow is under). Then again turn direction when red/yellow is up. That is: only the red cards!
Difference between working with two weft threads and only one.

woensdag 25 maart 2020

Carreaux crochet short clip

Finaly there is a short clip of the basis technic of Carreaux Crochet.

The complete PDF file with four test patches is available on Ravelry

Check 'projects' for nice ideas of testers and do not hesitate to share your own variations when you're done!

Have fun,

P.S. till the 15th of april 2020 you can download this pattern - or one of my other patterns - for free with the code 'Cum non tum age'. For personal use only!

donderdag 29 augustus 2019

Carreaux Crochet - Double Layer Patch

Many years ago I saw a double-layered potholder, made of two patches locked together with a sort of embroidery. Since then I was wondering if there was another way to make a double layered potholder without having to weave in too much ends of yarn. A possible solution came in a dream. I woke up, thought it was not gonna work, but took my crochet to try and managed.

After making about 20 try-outs with different sorts of yarn I found a family member willing to try it out. So I collected my notes and made 4 documents with small test patches in Dutch (my mother language): One for the basic explanation and 3 for variations.
While doing the basic explanation her reaction was; “once you get the hang of it, after about 3 rows, it goes very quick and if gives a nice patch”. After the fourth her reaction was; “still great to do, but this one is more like a 4 star sudoku”.

The pattern with the four tests - and some additional charts - is available in both Dutch and English on Ravelry.

Nederlandse Blog

Both sides of three potholders made with cotton in fantasy patterns. Both sides of a potholder made with cotton to try out diagonal lines. Both sides of the four test patches.
The name “Carreaux” is chosen since I wanted an “X” in the name, because of the little crosses in some my first try-outs, but I couldn’t find a word in Dutch or English. It means ‘tiles’ in French and actualy the French floor tiles were an inspiration for later designs.

zondag 28 juli 2019

Châle à coquelicots

Premier châleNuances rougesDeuxième châle

Après quatre semaines de chaleur le temperature était monté ces derniers jours. Cet-à-dire: vers le nord. Pendant que le nord de la France et ma famille aux Payx-Bas ne savaient pas ou se cacher avec le canicule, nous, dans les Corbières, on as eu un peu de l'eau du ciel et du fraîcheur. Des nuits de 17°C au lieu de 22°c et à l'intérieur 22°C au lieu de 28°C (une petite maison de village reste quand même plus fraîche qu'un appartement).

Tôt le matin j'avait mis une veste quand j'ai promenée mon chien, mais plus tard dans la matinée je pouvais mettre ma châle à coquelicots (blog en Anglais). Je l'adore! Fait en cotton ; c'est doux et comfortable. Et les couleurs rouges sont toujours si vivantes. Le châle date de mai 2016. Créé pour utiliser tant de nuances de rouge que j'avais. Après tout ; les coquelicots ont des nuances, eux aussi.

Je l'avais posté dans un groupe de châle sur Facebook et on m'avait démandé de transformer mes notes en motif de crochet. Avec quelques personnes on s'est mis apart et je les ai donné les notes, j'ai fait des 'charts' avec un programme gratuit, j'ai eu des corrections, des questions, des suggestions. Mais enfin, avec leur aide j'ai réussi de le faire! Un de ces personnes as aidé pour corriger une traduction brut en Anglais. Et j'ai tout mit sur le net.

Deux amies ici dans les Corbières voulaient bien m'aider avec une traduction en Français, mais suit à d'autres tâches qui demandaient leur attention et le mien on n'as pas réussi. Alors, la traduction 'brut' que j'avait fait restait tranquille sur mon disque dur. Mais en mettant mon châle ce matin je me suis dit que c'était le moment pour me mettre derrière mon écran pour continuer. Je venait de découvrir un groupe de test sur Ravelry, alors .... il faut plonger parfois.

Mes deux châles & un petit essai. Pour bien pouvoir préciser; 'combien de mettre', 'combien de temps' et d'avoir la façon de faire fraîche dans la tête je me suis mit à refaire quelques fleurs et - peut être plus tard - faire un troisième châle en couleurs.